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Whether you’re experiencing dead battery issues when you let your RS1 sit for long periods of time or you’re looking to relocate your machine’s battery to make room for other accessories, we’ve got the industry's leading Polaris RS1 batteries, battery chargers, battery tenders, and battery relocation kits. If you’re experiencing battery issues with your RS1 within the first few years, definitely complain to your dealer. The dealership might tell you that your battery is going dead because of the clock, but that’s usually not the case. If you financed the purchase of your RS1, some banks make the dealer put a GPS tracker on it. This is not unique to side-by-sides or UTVs either. A number of financial institutions require tracking devices to be installed on road bikes, quads, and other off-road vehicles to ensure that the asset doesn’t get stolen. And as you might expect, this tracker draws power from the machine's battery and will cause it to quickly die when not in use. We’ve seen some riders who didn’t turn their key all the way off, which caused the battery to die. The RS1 is not like the XP in this regards, the key clicks twice to the left to shut off. If all else fails -- and even if the electrical system is functioning as it should -- most experienced riders use battery tenders on all their machines. After many years of replacing batteries, you come to learn that paying for and using a battery tender now is far cheaper than the costs of new batteries every few seasons. But if your battery is shot and your in a pinch, many motorcycle or even lawn mower batteries will work in the Polaris RS1. Alternatively, Oddessy batteries and other lithium batteries are the top choice for riders who run a lot of high-draw accessories.
In addition to aftermarket RS1 battery replacements and battery tenders, many RS1 owners have expressed interest in battery relocation kits. There are options to move the battery above the radiator -- which keeps the battery near the stock location, retains the hood storage bin, and allows you to utilize the factory winch plate -- but a good number of riders who move their battery choose to run it in the back of their RS1. This is because the more weight you add to the front, the more it will nose dive due to the pivot point of the rear trailing arm. If you have, say, a heavy winch, a battery, and a steel front bumper, the added weight in the front causes the rear to unload easier, going straight up on jumps and over whoops. So if you’re interested in moving the battery on your Polaris RS1, running dual batteries, or getting an external jumping device to juice your battery up when it runs low, give us a holler and we’ll get you sorted!
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