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Everything Polaris RZR Blog

  • Opening Up The Hood On The Polaris RS1 Single Seater

    Some UTV enthusiasts say that the Polaris RZR RS1 is kinda thin with its 64” wheelbase. Others admit that it’s an impressive amount of machine for the money -- that is, if you don’t have a girlfriend or any friends. But if you’re never gotten a little solo throttle therapy, you don’t know what you’re missing. Sure it’s nice to ride with friends and family, but when you’re on your own in an RS1, there’s nobody there to wait on, nobody to nag you, and nobody to complain. There’s simply you, your machine, and the great outdoors, with nothing but raw power under your feet. 

    It may have less power and inferior suspension than something like the RZR Turbo s, but it’s arguably way funner to drive with far better handling. The center of gravity gives complete control that makes you feel like you're one with it, giving you confidence as the driver with a fast and responsive bike firmly within your control. Although many hardcore UTV fans may install an aftermarket Turbo in their RS1 -- or perhaps a Dynamix clutch and tune for a little boost -- they are still impressive stock machines right out of the box. But enough of the overview, let’s open up the hood and see what really makes the RS1 a truly special feat of side-by-side engineering. 

    Getting The Most Power Out Of Your Polaris RS1

    Driving a Polaris RS1 is a totally different experience than other side-by-sides -- even those by Polaris. It is a machine for those who just want to go fast and have fun, without having the worry about a passenger. There are many things you can do -- from slight tweaks and adjustments to full-blown modifications -- to give your RS1 a little more giddyup and go. Companies like Packard Performance, Boondocker, and Treal Performance all make turbo kits -- some custom, some production -- for the RS1. And because they built the RS1 off the Turbo RZR -- using the Turbo transmission and front/rear differentials from the Turbo and Turbo S -- you don’t need much internal work to get a turbo installed. With sime wiring harnesses, a turbo motor, some plumbing, and a properly flashed ECU -- not to mention around $5,000 -- you can unleash the power of a turbo in your RS1

    For those without the wherewithal to turbo their RS1s, there are other ways to increase power and speed without voiding the factory warranty. One way is to remove the stock muffler and install a slip-on exhaust. You will need a tune to add more fuel to compensate for the added exhaust flow, but you can use something like the PVCX and flash your ECU yourself. In this way you can flash your ECU back to stock anytime you want in the comfort of your own garage. The PVCX can also come with the correct tune from the manufacturer, and all you do is load it and remove the tuner. Iit can also be installed permanently, as it offers data logging and configurable gauges. Also with an exhaust, you can run spark arrestors in both outlets and even wear hearing protection if it’s too loud. Alternatively, you can also run a quiet core, which really quiets the exhaust down without compromising power. 

    We know a lot of ATV guys out there who never had to add any type of tune after adding an exhaust -- whether it’s a slip-on or full exhaust -- as long as they still had the stock intake setup. But what they fail to understand is that the stock RS1 engine is tuned to run extremely lean because of the CAT in the exhaust. Remove the restrictive CAT and one must add fuel, hence the need for the flash.

    Another thing worth considering is an aftermarket seat. There are a lot of good RS1 seats out there, but the Simpson is particularly good for two reasons. One is the added comfort, and the 2nd reason is heat. If you live in a cold climate, you can get twin heaters in the seat. Select this option and they build the seat with twin heating pads. Another trick that many riders don’t know is that the RS1 has a built-in “heater”. Just pull the cover off behind the seat and the belt exhaust air blows across the header and into the cab. It's factory heat, VW bug style.

    Getting Further In Your Polaris RS1

    For short- to mid-length rides, the RS1 gas tank has more than enough capacity. You might be asking yourself where people ride when they need to carry more than a full tank of gas, but you’d be surprised where an RS1 might take you. Some of these RS1 owners race 100+ mile desert races, but even for leisure riders, carrying an auxiliary fuel tank might be required for some rides. The jaunt from Kokapelli to Moab, for example, is a common trek that’s nearly 150 miles. You might be able to make it on a single tank, but if you’re ripping up your RS1, rock crawling, etc. you’ll likely be going through petrol as if you had a hole in your tank. 

    Now there aren’t external gas tanks specifically for the RS1, but it’s definitely doable nonetheless. You can attach vent a hose to something like a dirt bike aux tank and then vent a hose out from there. On the right side of the RS1 there’s a spot where you can add a small tank. Pull the right side panel off and you will see that there’s plenty of room. We’ve seen guys carrying a little 3.5 gallon tank on the side. The roof is another place where riders sometimes store extra fuel, but the idea of gas overheating up there is a bit too sketchy for most. 

    Running The Right Tires In Your RS1

    The RS1 is a notorious sand machine, ripping up any dune you set it on. But regardless of if you’re in Tonopah Nevada or the salt flats in Utah, if you want to dune properly, you need the right sand tire setup. Paddles tires are the best, but stock Bighorns work very well. The 30" STI Sand Wedge tires works well on the rear with Pro Armor 10x14 wheels. Then for the front you can run Pro Armor 30" tires on 8x14 Pro Armor wheels. Riders like STI Sand Wedge paddle tires due to the reinforced paddle. If you ride in areas that have some hard pack trails between the dunes, paddle tires tend to get wrecked, so the wedge paddle is good for that. 

    Run in 4 Wheel Drive is also a good idea. The RS1 tends to push in the sand. In 4 Wheel Drive, however, the front doesn’t push as much, so 4WD will help with steering. It’s not as common to see riders of other vehicles riding in 4wd on the sand, but the short wheel base of the RS1 doesnt let the front dig in hard enough and causes it to push in the corners. You can also add some preload to the rear shocks to help the front dig in more.

    Another question we get about tires for the Polaris RS1 is size; 32s or 30s? Here we get into evaluating several factors, but the bottom line is almost always based on evaluating from stock. Consider the stock tire height vs. your desired height. Usually adding a taller tire equals a slight drop in performance. Consider the weight of the stock tire/wheel. Run larger tires and one could run a lighter wheel. Then there is the clutch to consider as well. UTV riders can always reconfigure for changes made. Another factor that one must consider when running taller tires is the surface that their going to be riding on. If it’s sand -- which sucks HP big time -- you might want a slightly taller tire than stock, but a tire/wheel weight that is considerably lighter than stock. Address the engine and exhaust and this will add about 10 HP, which really compensates for running a slightly larger tire unless they are really heavy.

  • Optimizing Your Polaris RZR's Suspension Setup: Jumping And Trails

    The first time you do a big jump on your Polaris RZR it is truly terrifying… that is, until you land on flat ground and don’t even feel it. Depending on what model and edition of the Polaris RZR you have, be it the single-seater RS1 or the turbo-charged RZR turbo, your machine might have come stock with great suspension components. But when you’re headed straight towards a takeoff with a wide open throttle running right up until the moment before you're airborne, it’s nice to know that your RZR is running the best UTV suspension setups to handle the landing. The capabilities of suspension systems can also be optimized for other types of terrain, such as rocky and rough trails or tight and fast roads. Look no further, because this is a down and dirty runthrough of Polaris RZR suspension systems.     

    A Quick Rundown Of Polaris RZR Suspension Fitment

    The standard Turbo RZR and the RZR XP1000 have the same suspension and front differential. The Turbo S and RS1 have the beefier front differential. HCR makes a kit now to mount the Turbo S differential in the other cars now. Standard Turbo arms fit on the XP1000, whether they have sway bar mounts or not. RS1 arms don’t fit any other car because the pivot tubes are shorter. The “legs” of the arms are not the right width apart as well. If you want wider suspension, LSR, HCR and a handful of other aftermarket RZR suspension manufacturers make wider arms for the RS1. With the shorter wheelbase, be careful about getting too  wide though. A short, wide bike is going to be squirrely.

    So basically, the Turbo S suspension will interchange, but the  RS1 and S front will not interchange with any other chassis. The rears will fit on every RZR 1000  and turbo chassis, but the fronts will not. The front differential that they use changes the mounting points. 

    RZR Jumping Suspension

    It doesn’t matter if you’re hitting natural rock jumps in Moab or man-made track jumps at any number of side-by-side tracks and courses across the globe, if you’re gonna go big, you want exceptional RZR shocks underneath you.  

    The ZBroz Exit 2.5’s are super nice, providing ample cushioning for the flattest of landings while still maintaining the rebound to propel your machine off the lip of the jump. The only caveat with Exit shocks is that they don’t fit the HRC Kit. You might assume they just bolt right on, but the bottom spring retainer hits the upper A arm. 

    Another option is the Walker Evens shock setup. Even old Walker Evens suspension kits can be sent in. You can have them re-valved and tuned as well as swapping out the springs with new crossover’s. This will make a big difference, and you’ll definitely be able to tell on both the takeoff and landing. 

    Regardless of the shocks you run on your RZR, it is always wise to stay on the gas until you know you’re off the ground. Your trajectory in the air obviously depends on how the jump is shaped, but it is also affected by your machine’s velocity at takeoff. Make sure to slowly let off the gas after leaving the face of the jump, and ensure that the face is at least 1.5 times the length of the machine. Further, the rebound has to be slower in the rear to mitigate the kicking effects of the jump. To avoid both nose-diving and flying tail down when you jump, you have to realize that it’s more than just scoping the jump and performing some fancy footwork. If you love to send it, you’ll love sending it even more with a proper suspension system. 

    RZR Trail Suspension

    When you break enough parts or end up getting hurt, you might not jump as much. But that doesn’t mean you’ll stop ripping your RZR. Like with jumping, a good set of shocks can make or break a trail ride. UTV Companies like Shock Therapy and others make suspension setups with sway bars that connect the two wheels together in a line. Although this does result in a loss of articulation, if you compare the sway bars on Shock Therapy shocks vs. stock sway bars -- especially on the RZR XPT -- you’ll find that you may not even need them. The shocks themselves should make a big enough difference and have the adjustability to not need a better aftermarket sway bar. 

    Some people assume you’re bike will get more body roll with a true dual rate suspension setup, and that's where the Shock Therapy sway bars help in that regard. It really depends on how u set it up. You can revalve and re-spring one set for racing and adjust the ride height down for less body roll, and re-valve another set for dunes.

    Conclusion

    Whether you’re looking at RZR suspension upgrades for shortcourse or trying to find ones optimized for the dunes as well as jumping, a new suspension setup will no doubt bring benefits to you and your machine when riding.

  • What To Expect From The New Polaris RZR 2020 Lineup

    The 2020 Polaris RZR lineup has arrived, and new to the scene is the 2020 Polaris RZR Pro XP edition. We’ll talk about this new machine in more detail, but let’s not gloss over the upgrades Polaris made to the other machine’s in their lineup. Look at the Turbo S Velocity edition, the Highlifter edition, or even the RZR 170 EFI and you can see that 2020 is going to be a good year for RZR owners. Now don’t get us wrong, this is by no means a consensus. Everybody and their grandma has their own opinion on the new Polaris RZR 2020 lineup, so we’ll get down to it with the facts, giving you an unbiased look at the future of Polaris RZRs.

    2020 Polaris RZR XP Pro Edition

    The first thing many RZR XP Pro Edition test drivers notice is the look of the exterior -- which we’ll touch on in a bit. The second thing people notice is the interior of the machine. The center console design and the steering wheels have gotten tremendous feedback, and the new seating style has far more features and greater adjustability than the previous RZR models. The seat brackets and base mounts are totally redesigned, and instead of the old 3-point mounting design that gave the seat unwanted side to side movement, the RZR XP Pro seats now use a rock solid 4-corner mounting mechanism. They can be adjusted forwards and backwards and have an adjustable tilt built into the seat base. You can sit up or lay back, whatever style you prefer. Sure you can’t put older seat styles in, but with greater comfort and an all-around superior seating / mounting design, why would you want to?       

    Aside from the upgraded seating in the RZR XP Pro 2020, pretty much all the other parts are upgraded, and the front differential is particularly beefy. Yes, these upgrades do make it almost 2000 lbs heavier, but a lot of this comes from the roll cage. Any good cage is going to add weight, especially compared to the old-style RZR cages that were particularly lightweight.  

    The look of the RZR XP Pro is one of its biggest points of contention. Some riders have said the front end looks like a shark nose, while others have compared it to a Ford Fiesta with a roll cage. We’ve gotten feedback that it looks like Chevy (with the Camaro) and Polaris (with the RZR XP Pro) got into some kind of bet to see who could design the ugliest front end. And others have said that it looks like the unholy offspring of a threeway between a Honda Talon, a Can-Am, and a Yamaha.   

    Granted, a lot of these same people have changed their minds after seeing the XP Pro up close and in person. And the more you dig into the tech and upgrades of this machine, the more you’ll fall in love. Sure, if you’re buying an off-road buggy to simply sit and stare at it, get one that looks the way you want it to. But this machine performs much better than other UTVs with a ton of awesome features, and that’s what we here at Everything Polaris RZR really care about.  

    Despite the contentious look of the RZR Pro’s exterior, pretty much everyone can agree that its interior is on point. We recently sat in the RZR Pro Ultimate at UTV Invasion, and the cockpit is set up really well and the seats are surprisingly comfortable. The pictures make the rig look small, but when you actually sit inside, it is very roomy. The trailing arms, radius rods, tie rods, and A-arms are all beefed up, which is a win, since this is an all-terrain rig. Sure the red plastic looks cheap and cheesy like a Honda Talon, but the bones of the ride are definitely high quality and the cockpit area as well as the new features are great. 

    2020 Polaris RZR Turbo

    We’ve been hearing a few people say that Can-Am has Polaris beat because of the 2020 release. There’s no doubt about it, the Can-Am is a pretty bad ass car. But, the RZR Turbo S is by far superior on the track -- whether it has less Hp or not. For those who say otherwise, you haven’t driven a Turbo S. We’re still waiting for a Can-Am to win a KOH -- or to even finish top 8 in the 2019 KOH. 

    I know what you might be thinking, “Well Look at the 2019 UTV Championship Racing results”. Sure Can-Am took more top 5 positions, but if you look at the top 15, Polaris had 9 machines on the podium. At that point it comes down to the drivers and who's machine’s held up on that particular day. If you look at the 91 mile event known as the super bowl of UTV racing, the most grueling 91 mile race, with Polaris dominating by taking the first 7 positions, the 8-lap event known as UTV Championship Racing is hardly a comparison. 

    You also hear people whining and complaining about the price of the RZR Turbo S. Sure it’s a bit pricey for most people, but unlike a lot of people, true powersports lovers would rather have a piece of junk truck and a bad ass RZR, because no memory ever starts with "well we were hanging out in my new truck…”. Besides, people always quote the Ultimate Trim Package when talking about price, neglecting the fact that with the Turbo S you get more travel, a wider stance, more ground clearance, and bigger tires, all stock. 

    Here’s the thing, If 20 hp is the only thing separating your machine from your buddies X3, then sorry to say it, but it comes down to the driver. Now we’re not talking about a 300-meter drag race, Because that’s meaningless. If your buddy is kicking your butt with his x3 because he has 20 extra hp, you can’t drive or he has bigger balls than you. We’ve seen RZR 800’s kick the crap out of turbo RZRs. We’ve also seen AC Wildcat 700’s whoop up on 1000 RZRs and Mavericks. We’ve even seen 4-seat RZRs run with tuned yxzs. It’s 98% driver skill, and unless you’reDale Earnheart, the machine you race with probably won’t make that much of a difference. Drivers win UTV races, not the machines. 

    Of course we think that the RZR is a better and more capable machine, we also think that the Pro XP is probably the biggest home run in the last five years. The X3 is going to be the fastest in a straight line drag race, no doubt about it. The Turbo S and and the new RZR Pro XP are going to be way more durable and offroad capable. A lot of people say they would take durability over performance and they didn’t mind paying for it, but it seems they’d prefer cheap Chinese garbage that will make some super fast runs then break almost immediately. 

    Conclusion

    When the dust settles and the excitement subsides, all you’ll be left with is the machine you purchased. Sure you might have wished that Polaris upped the Turbo S power to match the XP Pro, but take the cheaper price tag, throw your savings into a tuner, and you’ll easily surpass that 181 hp mark. With new Turbo features -- like liquid cooling -- a brand new XP Pro machine, and updates to other machines in their RZR lineup, Polaris will continue to be a leader in the market.  

  • Upgrading Polaris RZR Parts: Wants Vs. Needs

    To upgrade or not to upgrade, that’s a stupid question. But in all seriousness, it can be hard sometimes to decide which parts and components of the Polaris RZR need upgraded. Obviously, it depends on your riding style and what you do with your machine, but other factors also come into play when deciding whether or not to swap aftermarket parts into your Razor. We’ll touch on a few of these in this post, and discuss some of the UTV accessories that are imperative, and some that are… not so much.

    RZR Wheel And Tire Upgrades

    Many Polaris RZR owners that we’ve talked to are looking to upgrade their wheels and tires, but can’t decide on the size to run. Tire brand notwithstanding, 30” or 32” are pretty typical, and both sizes will clear without any problems. One recommendation that we often make, however, is a clutch kit. Although it’s not essential, you can definitely feel the difference a clutch kit makes -- especially if you run a heavier tire and/or wheel on your side-by-side. 

    A lot of people say that you’ll start breaking things if you don’t upgrade your clutch when running bigger tires, but where and how you drive plays a much bigger role in the clutch’s performance. You can still ride tails and rocks as well as moderately steep hill climbs with a stock clutch, but your best bet will be to run in low range 90% of the time and not beat on it too hard. 

    The size of your machine’s engine will also come into play when deciding on tire size. For the Polaris RZR 1000, 30” is dang near optimal. You’ll experience next to no power loss and be able to plow through almost anything without having to worry about added stress on the axles, joints, and other drivetrain and powertrain components -- including the belt. 

    RZR Safety Upgrades

    In addition to tire and wheel upgrades for the RZR, safety accessories are also one of those things that should never be overlooked. Upgrading the cage is an option -- because honestly, the stock Polaris RZR cage won’t withstand much punishment -- but things seatbelt upgrades are a surefire way to keep you and your passengers safe when ripping it up on a Polaris RZR. 

    We here at Everything Polaris RZR like to recommend either 4-point or 5-point harnesses. The 5-point harnesses are kind of a hassle with passengers coming in and out all the time, which is why many riders go with the easier 4 points. That being said, however, the 5 points give anti submarine support, which may help in a crash.  

    Fire extinguishers are another accessory that aren’t obligatory, but still good to have around. On the flip side, you could always just let your UTV burn, collect the insurance money, and use that for a down payment on the latest and greatest Polaris Razor. All jokes aside though, safety should be your number one priority, because it’s sure hard to hold a steering wheel with a broken collar bone. 

    RZR Suspension Upgrades

    The last component we’ll dig into here is suspension. Some RZR riders like it soft and squishy, while others like it hard and firm. Shock upgrades are an easy way to match your machine’s suspension with the terrain type where you’re riding. King shocks, for example, are popular because if you go to an event that they are at, they will tune them for you. Alternatively, they will walk you through how to do it yourself over the phone. But beware, knock offs are common, so all you Ebay shoppers take heed and make sure you’re getting the genuine product. Other than King shocks for the Polaris RZR, we’ve also heard good things about Fox’s RC Race Podium shocks as well as Elkas. And while you might come down with a slight case of sticker shock when you see the price of such suspension setups, the performance enhancements may well be worth it -- especially if you have a Highlifter XP edition that you want to run gear reduction on for 32s. 

    That being said, it depends on where you ride. Sure some high-travel HD suspension is great for bumps and rocky terrain, but if you’re mudding or doing tight, twisty, and fast wooded trails, you might want something tighter with a sway bar to maintain speed and counteract momentum around turns. But heck, most of the higher-end shocks are adjustable, so you can have the best of all worlds no matter where you ride.  

    Conclusion

    For most of us, budgetary restrictions demand that we prioritize or UTV priorities. Yes it would be nice to upgrade everything and get the best parts for your RZR, but the next best thing is to upgrade only the components that make the biggest difference to you, your riding style, and areas in which you ride. 

  • The RZR 170, ACE 150, And Other Youth UTVs

    Be it the RZR 170, the ACE 150, or the Ranger 150, getting your kids into UTVs at a young age will not only prepare them for larger machines in the future, but it will also teach them basic vehicular operation and mechanical maintenance skills. Whether you’re kids are looking to enter the racing circuit, or you simply want them to have something to putt around it, Youth UTVs are becoming an increasingly popular option in the power sports community. So if you’re considering a UTV for your little one, keep reading, because we’re about to dig into the good, the bad, and the awesome vis-a-vis the RZR 170 youth side-by-side.

    The RZR 170 VS. The ACE 150

    When considering which youth UTV to buy, there are many factors to consider. Your child’s age, driving abilities, and where / how they ride all play a major role in determining the right machine for them. When juxtaposing the ACE 150 with the RZR 170, it is clear that there is tons of aftermarket support for the 170s, but not so much for the 150s. They both have about the same stock top speed, but the 170s have upgrades available to make them much faster. 

    The RZR 170s have 23" tires vs the 21" tires that come stock on the ACE 150, and about two-three inches more ground clearance — although the 150 has better front suspension. They both hold value fairly well, and many parents like the fact that the 150 has real gauges and not just stickers. Also, the ACE 150 has a neat GeoFence feature that allows you to set perimeters and adjust the speed control from your smart phone’s Ride Command App. If you want your children to only go 5mph around camp and then like 15 to 20mph after they get away from camp, you can set the GeoFence on the app so it limits their speed to those specifications.

    Benefits Of Buying A Race-Ready Rig

    If your mini-me is interested in racing, you might want to consider buying a race-ready RZR 170. Many riders are under the opinion that buying a race ready rig is cheaper in the long run — although a good one will still set you back anywhere from $8-$12k, and building it with your kid is half the fun. Throw on a parker pumper, a 5 point harnesses, quick change gear set, Cognitio long travel and adjustable arms up front, and whatever else you can afford to make a truly speedy machine. And there are countless other aftermarket modifications you can make to unleash the ponies and take the freak off the leash.

    Aftermarket RZR 170 Mods

    The sky is the limit when it comes to modifying and upgrading the Polaris RZR 170. With regards to the motor, you can get a big bore kit, a big valve head, and an aftermarket Hoca  A10 cam upgrade. You can even drop in a yfz450 or a 232 stroker motor with a trench and epoxy case as well as a 4V head if you feel so inclined. These kinds of motors are perfect if your kid is used to riding machines like the KTM 50sx dirt-bike or a drr90 race quad — both of which are 2 stroke, so if they are used to that 2 stroke power when it gets on the pipe, these racing engines are the perfect fit to max out the power while still being able to race in the <250 class. 

    Even with a bore kit, to get the absolute max power out of any RZR 170 with motors up to 232cc , an Aracer standalone ECU is a must — especially when you combine it with the auto-tuner. Further additions like exhausts, clutch kits are also important. You'll need the exhaust to be able to flow more air, and an EFI tuner to add fuel. Before adding an EFI tuner to your rig, you’ll likely fid that it runs like crap because It is starving for fuel. Additionally, the Vent racing air box delete is also suggested as well as an Air Cleaner to gain maximum horsepower and mph. 

    If you’re kid isn’t racing but has outgrown his lower-cc UTV, it might just be time to upgrade to an RZR 570. A bigger vehicle will provide more power, without breaking the bank. On the other end of the spectrum, if you child is a bit too small for his or her RZR 170, you might want to consider a pedal extension like the one by Lonestar Racing. Even with the seat all the way up, shorter children may not be able to press the pedal all the way down, which leaves a lot of power untapped. You can also take the slack out of the throttle cable, as there are several hundred rpm hidden there. Just move the little rubber cover and put the slightest pressure on the pedal, turning it till the rpms come up. 

    Summing Up

    At the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter if you’re little hell raisers are cruising around in a Youth ACE, an RZR 170, or even (if it’s the absolute last option available) a Suzuki 50cc quad, as long as they are having fun and staying safe, that’s all that matters. If you’re wanting to introduce your kid to UTVs, there’s no better way to start than by putting them behind the wheel of a Polaris RZR 170! 

  • The Polaris RS1: Your Dream UTV In The Making

    In the UTV world — and in a broader sense the entire world in general — it is humanly impossible to please everyone. And despite having done an incredible job on the Polaris RS1 — which is nothing but satisfactory for the majority of riders out there — some pedantic side-by-side nitpickers are still not satisfied. In this post, we’d like to address some of these concerns, giving our two cents as to their validity as well as what one can do to counter these concerns.  

    Qualm #1: The Polaris RS1 Is Too Loud

    True the stock Polaris RS1 can be a bit noisy for some riders — I mean, what else can you expect when the muffler is only inches behind your head. While this might be a non-issue for some riders, others would prefer a quieter ride to be able to listen to their stereo equipment or talk on their buddies through their integrated communications system. Yet, with a few aftermarket accessories, you can drastically reduce both the in-cab and external noise emissions of the Polaris RS1.

    A simple slip-on muffler or full aftermarket RS1 exhaust like the ones by Trinity Racing, for example, work wonders in reducing exhaust noise. Alternatively, enclosing the cab with front and rear windshields will also lower the decibel levels experienced by the driver. But if you do run an RS1 windshield to reduce noise, installing both a front and rear panel is important. 

    Without a rear windshield, an air vortex develops and drops all the dust and dirt from the trail right down the back of your neck. And as a bonus, It will stay a little cooler in the cab if you run front and rear windshields. Much cooler, in fact, than the Can Am Maverick, which is notorious for it’s engine heat and stifling cab. 

    Qualm #2: The Gas Pedal On The RS1 Is Too Touchy

    When first riding the RS1, some riders have expressed the opinion that the gas pedal is too touchy / unforgiving, making it hard to modulate the throttle on rocky trails without bouncing. But with anything new, it takes some time to get used to the RS1. It’s a totally different ride then any other side-by-side, and contrary to the layman’s viewpoint, it’s not just an RZR with only one seat. The entire feel of the RS1 is different, and once you get used to it, you should love it. Trail riders especially love the fact that they can see both tires when driving and place them right were they want.

    You have to foot the throttle like a sandrail — placing your heel at the bottom of the petal. An ECU tuner will also help the throttle response. The stock RS1 throttle mapping needs refined. Polaris does it this way to fit the majority of drivers. An ECU tuner will help the throttle be more linear for a smoother response. 

    Qualm #3: The Front End Is Too Light And The Wheelbase Is Too Short

    For some riders — especially hill climbers — the front of the Polaris RS1 is a bit too light for their liking. Similarly, the shorter wheelbase of an RS1 doesn’t help on hill climbs either. But while the narrow wheelbase may detract from hill climbing performance, when it comes to tight and narrow wooded trails, the RS1 can squeeze through areas that other UTVs cannot. Yes the RS1 front end might be a bit light for some applications, but if you add some pre-load to the rear shocks it will help balance things out. 

    Qualm #4: The RS1 Makes A Clunking Noise When Driving

    Like Many Polaris CVTs, the RS1 is known to be a little clunky. Some riders hear it when they hit or release the gas, while others hear it on bumps or when traversing whoops. Put your RS1 in neutral and let it roll down a steep trail and you’ll likely hear nothing. More likely than not, this clanking sound is coming from the clutch sheeves clanking open and closed. Simply get clutching done and the clunk will disappear. Change the secondary spring to a helix and you’re good to go. Easy as that.

    Qualm #5: The RS1 Doesn’t Have Enough Storage Room

    Yes, the Polaris RS1 is a one-seater, and is thus smaller than it’s multi-seater RZR cousins. But this is no way affects the amount of cargo and supplies you can haul with it. There are countless storage accessories, from cargo racks to door bags, which will enable you to carry anything and everything you could possibly want or need. After all, storage without door bags is minimal in all models. 

    Summing Up

    Whatever you’re issue is with the RS1, there are solutions out there to remedy it. Both Polaris as well as dozens of aftermarket side-by-side parts manufacturers have gone over the RS1 with a fine-tooth comb, identifying all the problem areas and coming up with ways to fix them. So if there’s anything about your RS1 that you don’t like, you can bet your a$$ there’s an aftermarket accessory, a part upgrade, or a tune you can implement to make the RS1 your dream machine.  

  • Inside The Polaris ACE: An In Depth Analysis

    Thinking about getting the Polaris ACE one-seater side-by-side? Are you weighing the options between the ACE models, comparing and contrasting the pros and cons of the ACE 325, ACE 570, and both the ACE 900 XC and 900 SP? Stick around, because in this post, we’re going to dig a little deeper into the Polaris ACE, identifying what makes this awesome machine tick, and outlining a few of the benefits and drawbacks of each edition. 

    How Does The ACE Compare To The RZR?

    Before we compare the four different types of Polaris ACEs, lets first draw some distinctions between the ACE and it’s bigger brother: the Polaris RZR.   

    When juxtaposing the ACE 900 XC and the RZR 900S, one can see the differences right away. The RZR 900S makes 75hp, the 900 XC makes 78hp (that is, when it is properly upgraded and tuned with an integrated clutch, tuner, and exhaust). The RZR weighs 1204 lbs, and the ACE only weighs 1050 lbs. With more power and less weight it would seem obvious that the ACE must be faster than the 900S, but that ultimately depends on the final gearing and the aftermarket accessories installed. They both use the same motor,  but according to Polaris, The ACE SP can only output 60hp stock, which is considerably less power than the RZR 900 — especially in the sand.  

    We have also come to understand that the latest 900's in both the RZR and the ACE use a single throttle body fuel injection system that is drive-by-wire. Consequently, there are huge gains to be had by switching to the older duel throttle body set-up, but some light fabrication is required to connect a throttle cable up. There are a few other things required to complete that conversion, but we’ll digress for now so we can touch on the differences between the Polaris ACE models. 

    The ACE 900 VS The ACE 570: Which Is Superior?

    Like with all UTVs and off-road vehicles in general, there is no clear winner between the ACE 900 and the ACE 570. The superior vehicle side-by-side is one that works best with your personal driving style and the conditions you ride. Do you creep through tight, technical, trails, or fly down open roads at high speeds? Are you looking for smooth rides and powerful bursts of acceleration, or something that can take you further on the same amount of gas — is it all about miles per gallon, or is a metric like smiles per gallon more appropriate? All ACE models are dependable, sturdy, and reliable, but if you want to optimize for your area and preferences, it’s good to know the differences between them. 

    The trail edition ACE 900 XC, for example, uses significantly more fuel than it’s smaller-cylinder counterparts. The range in the 570cc ACE is about 130 miles, whereas you’ll likely get no more than 90 miles out of a single 900 tank. The ACE 900 also generates a bit more cab heat, which is why many ACE owners refrain from adding the lower doors to their machines — but you can also add two small pieces of foam pipe insulation under the dash to help block the heat. 

    If the ride quality is your main concern, you may want to go with the 900 XC. I the 900 XC you can easily go 50-55mph in a sandy creek over 6" ruts and not feel much. The 900 XC suspension soaks up a lot of the smaller stuff when going slow as well. So in addition to having more power and twin cylinders, the 900cc ACE has better suspension. 

    On a strictly horsepower basis, yes the ACE 900 is more powerful. But for many riders, the ACE 570 has more than enough power. Besides, you can only go so fast on trails anyway. Unless you plan on driving your ACE to work on the interstate, the top speed of the 570cc is likely fast enough. Because the 900 is more powerful, however, it can easily handle a hundred pounds of aftermarket accessories and gear, steep inclines, bigger tires, and strong headwinds. On the flip side, the 900 ACE is more expensive and harder on fuel, so it all boils down to what you deep to be important. The extra horsepower of the 900cc ACE might be totally unnecessary, or it might make a day of cruising 50-60mph effortless. 

    ACE Wheelbase Widths: Does Size Really Matter?

    Another key difference between the ACE 900 and the smaller ACE 570 and ACE 325 is the width of the machine. For 50” trails, the 570 will take you a lot further than the ACE 900. Further, if you don't add 2" wheel spacers and offset wheels all the way around, tuned up, 90hp ACE 900 SP is a death trap. There’s just way too much power for that wheelbase and width. And if you do widen the wheelbase, the 900 SP will no longer be legal for all those 50” trails. Thus, many riders think its best to stick with the fuel efficient 570, which has plenty of power for the trails. 

    If you’re a speed daemon though and yearn for that acceleration-powered adrenaline rush, you might well opt for the ACE 900 XC — which has the same motor as the 900 SP tuned correctly from the factory as well as front a-arms with the proper stance to accommodate that insane horsepower. 

    Summing Up

    If you think you need that much motor and are willing to pay more for the bragging rights, the ACE 900 is sure to impress. For many riders, however, the 570cc ACE is more than enough to meet their needs. Some ACE owners would rather have the newer front end, but many prefer the old faithful strut system because they’ve been working with it for so long. Most accessories work for both ACEs, so there’s not many differences when it comes to potential performance ad-ons. At the end of the day, be it an ACE 325, an ACE 570, or an ACE 900, it doesn’t really matter what size ACE you have as long as you’re having a blast riding it! 

  • Polaris RZR Featured Brand: SuperATV

    From A Small Fish To An Industry Whale 

    With humble beginnings making a single product — a 2” lift kit for the Polaris Sportsman — out of the founder’s garage, SuperATV has com to dominate the aftermarket UTV parts scene. Today, their 500,000sq.ft warehouse and 600 acre testing facility employs a team of in-house designers, fabricators, and engineers that are consistently bringing UTV parts concepts through the prototype phase, past testing, and onto manufacturing. And because SuperATV both manufacturers and distributes their own products, they can offer superior quality at discount prices. 

    While they have diversified to other UTVs like Gators, Yamahas, Kawasakis, and even golf carts, they have stayed true to their Polaris roots, providing parts for Generals, RZRs, Rangers, and Sportsmans. Their product family is diverse, consisting of well-known names such as Rhino Axles, Assassinator Tires, and Gear Driven Performance. But the depth and breadth of their product lineup is too expansive to list here. However, of particular note are their windshields — the SATV flip-up windshield in particular —, their lower doors, and their winches.   

    The Rackboss steering rack and pinion by SuperATV is another one of their flagship products. It was designed to handle master tires, the gnarliest of terrain, and an inordinate amount of use and abuse. According to them, it is the longest-lasting rack and pinion on the market. And based on customer feedback we’ve received, we can’t disagree.   

    Customer Satisfaction And Quality Accessories

    From conversations with customers, dealers, and random riders on the trail, we here at Everything Polaris RZR have had the opportunity to pick the brains of many smart people. We’ve found that, in general, a lot of RZR owners and other UTV riders haven’t had a ton of great experiences with any Polaris-branded accessories. Things like poor fitment, fundamental design flaws in the products, and over-the-top prices leave riders wanting more. And this gap in the market is one of the reasons why SuperATV has excelled. Their attention to detail, their rigorous testing and iterative prototyping, and their commitment to keeping costs low are why UTV riders of all makes, models, and brands have come to trust and embrace SATV products; putting aside their rivalries and finding common ground.  

    Ask most riders and they’ll tell you that they have had nothing but good experiences with them. A friend of the site bought their 900 trail power steering, upgraded carrier bearing, bumpers, winches and their half windshield. She told us that all the components work as designed and she has experienced years of trouble-free service out of them — leading her to also buy their tuner and clutch kit recently. 

    When Stock Parts Fail

    In addition to their aftermarket accessories, SuperATV also makes replacement UTV parts and upgrades for a variety of side-by-sides, 4x4s, and off road utility vehicles. The SuperATV carrier bearing, for instance, is a popular replacement for the OEM bering carrier. RZR owners like the fact that they can grease it for longevity, and the retainer on it that gets mounted on the prop shaft next to the bearing helps to prevent the driveline from working its way backwards on the rear yoke and slipping of the bearing due to vibrations, imbalances, and improper phasing of the driveline.

    Easy Install?

    If you know what you’re doing, you shouldn’t have more trouble installing SuperATV’s accessories than you would any other brand. However, because of their singular focus on making the best UTV parts and accessories, SATV can sometimes fall short on their instructions. Many accessories come with directions that leave out important steps, even making it hard for those with mechanical knowledge and experience to follow. A customer who bought one of their windshields told us that it came with instructions, but the instructions didn’t mention why it had two different weather strips. 

    It’s kind of like a doctor who makes a half a million dollars per year and can't write a simple, legible, prescription that your pharmacist can read. However, even though their instructions seem to be written by a two-year-old, their website has a host of instructional videos to walk you through the install process — not to mention YouTube and Google searches. 

    Unlike their instructions, their customer support is A+. If anything is missing or damaged, simply call them up and they’ll ship it out. A buddy of ours even broke a clamp for his new rear window, told them he accidentally broke it, and they still shipped out a new one for free. And if you are getting extremely frustrated with a tough install, their tech is a super nice guy and will help you on the phone when you’re fed up and about to quit. 

    Fanning The Flames Of Off-Road Fanaticism 

    Whether you’re a racer, hill climber, or a weekend trail warrior, SuperATV can help you do what you do, only better. They are a family-owned and family-run business, putting their customers over profits. So if you’re on the fence about a particular product, not sure about an accessory, or wondering what replacement part will work best, going with a trusted brand like SuperATV is always a good option.  

  • Getting Your RZR Cleaned Up, Tuned, And Run-Ready For Riding Season

    Spring is upon us, and for those who live in places with capricious weather conditions, side-by-side season is fast approaching. Regardless if you rode through the winter or hibernated your Polaris RZR in the warmth of your garage, ensuring that your rig is tuned up and ride-ready is a must for all UTV owners. So bust out the pressure washers, get your grease gun, and blow the cobwebs off your side-by-side tool kit, because it’s time to giddy-up and get your a$$ on the trail. 

    Getting Your Rig Lookin Good

    Although you should have properly washed your machine before covering it for winter, a nice spring cleaning never hurts. But leave the garden hose, sponges, and buckets of soap for the cheerleading squad’s car wash fundraiser. If you want to clean like a boss — thoroughly and efficiently — a pressure washer setup is the way to go. Gas washers are great, but those electric units are super easy to plug in and use. Whichever one you have, though, make sure to get the 1/4 turn nozzle setup so you can run a foam cannon. We’ve heard nothing but good things about the Husqvarna 3300 PSI gas washer with the foam cannon, and Home Depot sells a Ryobi with a Honda engine that is great as well. The trick with these, however, is to turn it down to half throttle for more foam. Full blast over powers it way to much, and can actually damage your machine’s delicate areas such as the CV boots and electrical system. Regarding the latter, mainly steer clear of the area up against the back of the seat where the controller and voltage regulator is and not the entire fender well. 

    General best practice is to start by spraying your machine off completely, and then hit it with the foam cannon. Let that sit for ten minutes and then rinse it off, starting at the top and working down to the bottom. The only issue you might encounter is that, unless you leave your water on all the time,  your pressure washer will usually have air inside at the start, so it might take a minute or two of holding it open before it all get's out and you get water flowing. And don’t let the PSI figures fool you, there’s more to a good washer than the pressure ratings. For example, a 4000 PSI washer at 2.5 GPM (Gallons Per Minute)won’t clean much and it’ll do it slowly. Look for the higher GPM and you’ll be a happy washer.

    Checking Your RZR's Fluids

    Before you take your RZR out for its first spring ride, checking and changing its fluids is highly advisable. It fact, it is recommend that you stock your shelves with fluids as well as filters, and get good at changing them because you’ll be doing it frequently. Most mechanical failures in UTVs are associated with a lack of lubrication. These units see extreme duty on a regular basis, and thus have very few things in common with an automobile. The three main fluids you should check and change are the engine fluid, front differential fluid, and transmission fluid. 

    Contrary to popular belief, fluid choice will not void your machine’s warranty — that is as long as the fluids you are using meet the hydrodynamic properties required and are made from the basic additives of Polaris branded fluids. And  if you rid mud and wanter, go ahead and completely Ignore the manual change intervals. In many cases, the differential fluid will need to be changed after every ride due to water getting past the seals as they wear. It cost approximately $3 for the fluid to change it out, so this is something you’ll just have to get used to it. Before you take your bike out after a Long winter — and routinely thereafter — check the air filter for contamination. Sand, dirt, and mud getting past the filter will quickly steal your power by reducing compression. 

    For the trans and front diff fluid, Polaris branded fluids work well, and for the engine, a 15-40 synthetic by Mobile 1 or Rotella T are the best you can buy. Neither, however, are designed to meet Polaris' specific requirements like Amsoil products. If you actually do the technical research, you'll find that Rotella T breaks down faster than Amsoil, and Mobile 1 does not provide as much wear protection as Amsoil. Amsoil also provides warranty coverage if the oil is proven to be at fault during a factory warranty claim. Neither Retella T or Mobile 1 will give you that type of coverage. Using an oil that does not meet the manufacturer's specifications leaves you open for coverage issues. 

    And if you turn your own wrenches, we’d suggest getting a bottle pump as well. Companies like Rocky Mountain ATV have oil change kits if you want a simple solution, but sourcing the fluids separately is by no means a difficult task. If you’re in a pinch and low on time, your dealer should have everything you need; but at a premium. And here’s a pro tip: make friends with the shop manager. Throw him a little service work here and there and tip with a case of beer. Even if you do your own work, it’s nice to have friends when needed.

    Preparing For A Long Trip.

    If you’re planning a lengthy ride to break your RZR in for the new season, bringing along a spare tire, a tire plug kit, an air pump, a spare belt, a Qt of engine oil, and JB weld (metal and aluminum) is a good start, but there are a few other items you should pack along to truly be prepared for whatever nature has in store. It is also advised to bring tools to change belt as well as remove the primary and secondary clutch, a spare front and rear axel (if you’re really getting crazy), spare ball joints, spare steering links, spare lug nuts, and tools to tear down to the axel. Make sure to bring a 15mm socket, as this is the size for your main nut on the hubs. 24mm, 13mm, and 7mm deep sockets are also ones not to forget.  

    A red Scotch Brite pad is useful to clean/scuff your clutch sheaves if you need to replace your belt, and a 20’x30’ tarp makes a good tent and can cover your RZR when not in use. 3” epoxy tape is also a great item to bring along for shovel handles or hammer repair. You just soak it in water, wrap it where it’s needed, and let it sets. This is also a great emergency fix for a-arms and radius rods. 

    Many riders also like to carry survival supplies on overnight trips. Jerky, trail mix, dried fruit and water work great as emergency rations. If you are going out of cell range, a GPS spot device is a life saver. Unless you’re riding along at competition speeds, it is unlikely you'll need much for spare parts. A flat tire is probably the worst thing you will encounter. Assuming you're not carrying your entire trip’s worth of fuel, it's assumed you either have checkpoint vehicles or planned stops. If so, let them carry all the heavy stuff and keep your RZR as light as possible. 

    Other than that you should be set and ready to rock. Finally, zip ties and tie wire are good to have around, and you might consider replacing your bicycle pump with a ViAir 12 volt portable air compressor — the 87P model is particularly nice. And for machine’s that are difficult to start, John Deere starting fluid is 80% ether, which should spark up even the peskiest motors. 

    Our last piece of advice for getting your Polaris RZR ready and tuned up for the spring riding season: quit reading, get out there, and have some fun! 

  • Polaris RZR Helmet And Safety Buyer's Guide

    Through speaking with countless RZR riders over the years as well as first-hand, trailside, observations of our own, we here at Everything Polaris RZR have noticed that a lot of guys and gals don’t wear any head protection when ripping it up on their side-by-sides. Some Polaris RZR owners think that helmets are superfluous; after all, why would you need a helmet when you have an aftermarket seat, a high quality five-point harness, and a roll cage stronger than the golden gate bridge? True, running proper UTV safety accessories is a definite must, but it’s not enough. If you’ve ever rolled a side-by-side before (or any vehicle for that matter), you probably know how it feels to head-butt a side support beam. And unless you’re some kind of powers ports masochist, this is likely an experience you wouldn’t want to go through again. 

    Be it a full-face skid lid or a half-shell brain bucket, unless the metal plate in your head from your last rollover gives you enough protection, wearing a UTV helmet when riding is worth considering at the very least. If nothing else, an RZR helmet with goggles will help keep mud out of your eyes if you don’t run a windshield. And if you ride with your family, proper protective measures should be your highest priority. So without further ado, lets delve into the best helmets for side-by-side racing, hill climbing, and general riding. 

    Best Children’s UTV Helmets 

    Although your own CPU might run a bit slow after years of bumps, whoops, jumps, and hard turns, your kids’ or grandkids’ brains are full of endless potential that is worth protecting. However, be very careful when choosing a youth helmet for your little co-rider, as full helmets (and even half shells in some cases) can be too heavy for their necks to support. Depending on their age, those bulky motocross helmets are likely too large. And if you do find one that fits, these types of helmets often sit too close to their collar bone and can cause serious harm on impact. Furthermore, while booster seats can help, safety belts and harnesses tend to cross children at head height, lifting up their helmets and putting their heads in a precarious position. 

    For children under the age of ten, as long as they are strapped down in a proper car seat, a light bicycle or ski helmet is the best option. In addition to helmets, neck braces and HANS (head and neck support) devices like those worn by NASCAR drivers are also advised for children. Even the lightest of helmets and the smallest of fender benders can cause whiplash. Thus, the small foam pillow styles of neck braces and supports are a great way to provide that extra bit of support needed to prevent broken necks and pinched nerves. If Dale Earnhardt wore a helmet with a neck guard, surely it must be a cool thing to do. Even those go-kart type neck rolls are better than nothing, especially when the your child’s safety is on the line. 

    While protecting the neck is important for riders of all ages, as children’s necks develop in their teenage years, full-face helmets become a more appropriate option. Still, though, a lighter youth-style helmet is advised as it will not only put less strain on the neck, but also fit better. The Youth Sector Shear Helmet by Thor is one of the better options on the market. It comes in a variety of colors and styles for the most expressive of youth, is ventilated with a nose guard to prevent mud, dust and debris from entering, and most importantly, it’s ABS shell and dual density EPS impact dampening lining is DOT / ECE 22.05 approved, meaning that protection is guaranteed. 

    Best Adult UTV Helmets

    So you’ve got your children protected, now it’s time to protect your own dome. When you’re not rocking your double beer  can holding hardhat with a two-to-one suction straw, the Trekker Helmet By Fly Racing is a quality yet low-price option for riders of all skills and abilities. And if you’re buddies give you crap for wearing a helmet, take solace in the fact that you won’t be the one getting head trauma. We’ve spoken with too many riders whose lives were saved by helmets. When you roll your RZR at 60MPH, the stock cage bends inward and becomes pear shaped, and your head hits the ground, you might get knocked out, but you won’t pull a Humpty Dumpty and have your dome become a broken egg.  

    Many riders wear the Moto X helmet just to keep mud out of their eyes, and the O’neal’s helmet with the quick detach goggles works great for such purposes as well. FLY Racing makes quality UTV helmets, but when it comes to lightweight, leading edge, helmet technology, few companies can rival the SE4 Composite Baja Helmet by Troy Lee Designs. Constructed using the latest composite manufacturing techniques, the cost of this helmet is a small price to pay for superior protection. People talk about spending over $1500 on a sound system and never bat an eye, so why be a penny pincher when it comes to helmets? Blow your budget on safety gear and save up for the rest.

    Speaking of stereo equipment, why not kill two birds with one stone and get an in-helmet audio system. The Rugged Radio Helmet Kit pipes your favorite tunes directly into the helmet. A good helmet will muffle the sound of even the best in-cab stereos, and if you can squeeze ear buds in while your helmet is on, you’ve got yourself a helmet that is too big for your head.

    Life Is All About Choices

     Some RZR owners are religious about helmets, never riding without one. These same riders are likely to do the same thing in cars — not even backing out of their driveway without wearing a seatbelt. It only takes one wrong move to create a catastrophe, and if you’ve been in, seen, or heard about UTV accidents, you’re likely among the crew of aforementioned riders who never don’t wear helmets. Sure it may sting a bit to have your hard-earned pay prized from your wallet for a helmet, but if things take a turn for the worse and you end up rolling your buggy, you’ll have zero regrets. Because in the end, would you rather be a few hundred dollars poorer, of have a fence post enter your skull? Whether you rock a half bucket or a full face, be it on a dirt bike, Harley, snow machine, or quad, UTV helmets are literal lifesavers.  

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