SKU:
113-1021-1-EPZ
BRAND:
Aftermarket Assassins
2022-25 RZR Pro R (4 Cylinder) Turbo Kit
- Absolutely wicked horsepower gains! Seriously... even on pump gas, these vehicles are stupid fast. Move on to race fuel or E85 and they are on another level... simply mind blowing for a stock motor and how easy this kit is to install, and how reliable the vehicles remain. ** 2023-25 Models: Polaris changed to a weaker OEM piston/ring (vs the 2022 models), we recommend sticking to 10-12 PSI max (Level 4 100 octane) unless doing a built engine
- Vigorously tested for many months at over 100 MPH, 22-23+ PSI (not suggested, but we've been there!), sand dunes, trails, crawling, road cruising and so much more. Excellent driveability!
- Lead time: Lead time on kits is on average 2-5 business days for final production, assembly, and packaging
- Kit Includes: Turbocharger (assembled with oil fittings, and billet internal wastegate), custom stainless turbo header, billet external wastegate (yep, kit uses 2 wastegates), exhaust gaskets, oil adapters, drain line, feed line, oil drain plate, v-band exhaust clamps, exhaust downpipe, slip-on exhaust(center exit with 3" cutout), water to air intercooler, water pump with mount, heat exchanger with fans/wiring, intake tube kit, charge air tube kit with blow off valve, boost control T, boost line and adapters, 3 bar map sensor, big injectors, lower heat iridium spark plugs, catch can (specific just for this kit), S3 turbo clutch kit, ECU unlock , 4 credits, AA turbo tune(s) for AA/HP Tuners RTD device (Start in any gear with brake now available).
- Our Water-to-Air intercooled setup is a true bolt-on kit that sets the standard for Pro R turbo kits and include top notch tuning, clutching, and all the required parts necessary to properly add boost to your Pro R.
- This kit utilizes the stock intake and air filter. This system works well at keeping dirt, debris, or water out of the intake system. Other kits may use clamp on filters which we do not suggest as they will be more prone to ingesting dirt. We do highly suggest our AA high flow Pro R air filter with outerwear. This filter is what we tested with.
- Intake modifications: it does help reduce intake suction if you remove your driver side air deflector. This is the plastic cover on the inside of your air inlet with Frog Skinz. We also found drilling holes in the front of the air inlet with Frog Skinz helps move a bit more air. Neither of these we found necessary but do help reduce intake restrictions and are best for higher tunes to keep power up and intake temps down.
- Clutching: This kit comes with our custom Turbo Clutch Kit which uses 125g base weights, gray/yellow primary spring, green secondary spring, and helix (two helix options) We have our standard 1072 performance helix that comes in our current kits for naturally aspirated Pro R models, and our 1078 performance helix which is more aggressive. We suggest the 1078 performance helix for those running Level 4 or higher tunes with 32-33" tires/paddles for best power transfer. The 1072 will work best with those running larger tires like 35-37" or paddles 35".
- 2 Seat Helix Choice: 1072 is the safe bet for any tire or paddle size, but especially larger tires like 35-37". 1078 for 32-33" tires/paddles - all out performance and works with any tunes, better for those running higher tunes often. 1078 helix is needed when running level 5-6 on 32-33" tires (not paddles).
- 4 Seat Helix Choice: 1072 again is the safe bet for any tire/paddle size. We only suggest the 1078 helix if mainly running level 5 or 6 and having a lighter 32-33" tire/paddle setup.
- Belts: Especially with tunes over Level 4, belts can be broken if you let off the throttle and hammer it again. This creates belt slop and the power sucking the belt back in will actually break them. Many have no issue, but please note this and always keep it in the back of your mind if running the higher power tunes.
- Exhaust: Our full stainless exhaust (turbo header, down pipe, muffler) is included. These parts are all hydro blasted for a great finish and quickly bronze giving them a great look. Our header has longer tubes than a cast manifold which helps take the heat away from the cylinders so we can more safely run higher boost before seeing knock. Our head pipe is designed to be as even flow as possible, and has an extremely sturdy mounting system for the turbo. Must use our AA slip-on exhaust which is included in the kit price. The stock exhaust or other aftermarket slip-on exhausts will not fit with our charge tube design and mounting. Our charge tube uses the top driver side exhaust isolator mount and ours has greater clearance for minimum heat transfer. Also, using another exhaust can hinder performance greatly and produce engine knock where not usually seen with our exhaust. If absolutely wanting to use another exhaust: you may be able to do your own fabrication to make it work (no idea of this is possible with different designs), but we offer no warranty or expectations.
- See our slip-on product listing HERE for a better description of our exhaust/options
- Quieter! The turbo acts as a baffle, and the heavier clutch weight needed to keep RPM in check will lower RPM. Both of these combined make your Pro R much quieter overall and even quieter when cruising than a non turbocharged model with exhaust.
- The Turbocharger: This kit uses a large 60mm turbo which has minimal backpressure. This is key for reducing engine knock on this high compression and high RPM motor. It's also needed to create higher horsepower levels. Because this is a high compression motor, it has a huge amount of bottom end to spool the turbo quickly. We use a low volume charge circuit so it fills with boost extremely fast, making lag in this kit virtually nonexistent. The turbo is a simple journal bearing and oil fed/cooled. This makes installation easier, keeps cost down, and is the most proven/forgiving bearing for off-road. We actually had problems with the turbo spooling too fast, so ball bearings are not needed, and we have no heat issues as backpressure is low, so water cooling is not needed for bearing life. This turbo is assembled and balanced in the USA.
- Tuned via the AA/HP Tuners RTD device. This requires your ECU to be sent in to us(AA) or HP Tuners for a one time unlock unless purchasing ECU outright, then the device can flash your ECU and change tunes at any time without needing to send it back. This system allows you to receive tunes, updates, and data log via a smartphone application. While we have the capability, a simple ECU flash will not be available for this kit as data logging and tune revisions can be a critical function to helping solve technical issues (if they were to arise). **Currently data logging is only available via computer while a few glitches are worked out with HP tuners smartphone app, but tunes can be sent/delivered to your RZR easily via your smartphone**
- See our tune list below. Keep in mind these vehicles are equipped with a knock sensor that will allow your ECU to pull up to 12 degrees of timing to protect the motor from potential failure. In testing, we abuse this protection system like crazy with high boost on pump gas and have had zero issues. However, the name of the game for maximum power is to stay off the knock protection system which reduces timing/power. HP tuners data logging allows you to look at knock retard and MANY other parameters to make sure your tune is running correctly and your fuel octane is adequate.
- Level 2 (91-93 Octane - 6-8 PSI - 291 RWHP/350 crank HP): This is the tune most will love for all around riding and simply having wicked horsepower and being easy on your motor/system. It will also have the best fuel economy out of all our tune files. It will use no air jet in the T fitting which provides the lowest possible boost pressure of this system.
- Level 3 (91-93 Octane - 8-10 PSI - 317 RWHP, 380-390 crank HP): Take level 2 but add a few lbs of boost. This uses our largest hole jet regulator to add 1-2 PSI over level 2. To achieve this on pump gas we have a richer fuel curve to stay away from engine knock protection. This is pushing the limits of pump gas, so while it runs very well on 91-93 and you'd have no issues anywhere, a splash of octane boost when running hard (like in the dunes) helps keep you away from knock protection (ECU pulling timing/power) from inadequate fuels.
- Level 4 (98-100 Octane - 10-12 PSI - 341-350 RWHP, 410-420 crank HP): We really like our Level 4 tune as we use 1 can of VP Octanium per RZR tank of fuel, or a mix of 110/pump gas. It uses our medium size air jet for boost regulation. This tune hauls the mail and the motor is very happy with the extra octane. As dyno sheets state, this number is a little shy of what we normally saw, but we did not dyno this tune much with our 40 MPH start, and the graph would look odd if we put our 15 MPH start.
- Level 5 (110 Octane - 13-15 PSI - 383 RWHP, 460-470 crank HP): Simply stupid! This tune rips on 110 octane fuel. This uses the air jet with the smallest hole to regulate boost. Get ready to hang on, this power is very reliable on 110 octane and comes on HARD.
- Level 5 Race (110 Octane - 16-18 PSI - 409 RWHP, 490-500 crank HP): This tune is pushing the limits, but is absolutely insane! We have run at this level of boost for many many hard miles without issue on the motor/turbo system. Belts can be broken if you drop the throttle and hammer it again. This creates belt slop, and the power sucking the belt back in will actually break them.
- For E85 tunes listed below, we HIGHLY suggest our AA high flow fuel pump. The OEM pump has worked fine, but is usually at the very max of its capability and will have issues in the future.
- Boost is regulated with our very simple and reliable system we designed just for this vehicle. Our turbo system uses dual wastegates (one internal, one external) as they are needed to slow the speed of this turbo due to the high RPM/exhaust flow of this motor. Our boost jets allow you to change boost levels in roughly the same time as it takes to flash the tune (minutes). On Level 3 and higher, boost is regulated using air jets in a T fitting to step down the pressure going to the wastegate actuators when higher pressures are required. This is a custom manual boost controller without the knob. This makes for a more reliable boost regulation system than a manual boost controller or electronic controller.
- The intercooler: Water cooling is better than air! Our water-to-air intercooler setup is industry leading as it has a small package size but cools the charge air extremely well. With increased air intake temps, knock protection (timing retard) will kick in especially on pump gas tunes. Our intercooler setup gives you the best chance to maintain peak power even on those long pulls. This system also has minimal volume vs an air-to-air setup, making spool up much quicker. The heat exchanger is filled with coolant that circulates to the intercooler via a pump, and has two fans included. This requires wiring the low draw pump/fans to either your pulse bar or the battery.
- The blow off valve and catch can are both vented to atmosphere in this kit. Both are located fairly high in the vehicle and always have positive pressure, so they can withstand the elements. If riding deep mud, you can easily use 1" hose and snorkel these items anywhere you'd like. Our catch can and intake tube are built so you can install a 1/2" hose off the can and cap the 1" filter on the top. This makes it a closed loop system, but you will experience some oil in your charge circuit, and even more so when running the bigger tunes.
- This kit fits under the OEM bed with just a little extra effort over stock (tilt it to the right to remove/install)
- Keep in mind of our heat exchanger location as it may interfere with accessories or aftermarket roll cages. The heat exchanger is 20 x 8 x 2.5" but is 24" overall with the coolant ports coming out each end. This is designed to be mounted nicely on the passenger side of the cage. Since it's bare aluminum, most local fab shops can handle such a job easily if needing to modify.
- **If you would like to mount this in a different location, let us know and we can leave our mounting tab/points off the heat exchanger**
- Boost Gauge: Verifying proper boost numbers is extremely important. You can purchase our optional boost gauge to mount on the dash to make things very simple, but this does take time to route. However, the RTD device included in this kit will allow you to record data logs and view data with your smartphone or laptop so you can calculate boost (or send them to us for review). This is done by viewing gauges with the key on, engine OFF and looking at manifold absolute pressure which will be your atmospheric pressure. Remember this value (normally around 14 if at sea level to 1500ft), then when running the vehicle at full throttle, subtract that value from the current manifold absolute pressure value. For instance, our pressure is 14 with the key off and our manifold pressure at wide open throttle is 24. This means we are running 10 PSI of boost.
- Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR) Gauge: Our tunes are set up with AFRs that are the perfect balance of power and engine safety. The tunes are designed to allow the OEM ECU to compensate via correction factors for altitude and temperature changes. However, having the optional AFR gauge helps you ensure your AFR is where it should be. The OEM narrowband sensor in the exhaust does
