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A-Arms and A-Arm Guards

Whether you busted, bent, or snapped the front / rear a-arms on your Polaris RS1 or are simply looking to upgrade to a set of high-strength, high-clearance aftermarket UTV a-arms, at Everything Polaris RZR, we’ve got the widest selection of both RS1 a-arms and a-arm guards. Over the years, we’ve gotten the opportunity of seeing a lot of RS1 a-arm setups and configurations. And one that we’ve seen many people run is a special carrier lower high-clearance a-arm with billet aluminum high-clearance radius rods. Companies like ZRP, SATV, ORB, L&W, and Kwiksaw Racing are all well known for their RS1 high-clearance radius rods, tie rods, and high-clearance lower a-arms. While OEM a-arms can be installed if you’ve broken the stock ones on your RS1, you may as well upgrade to avoid similar problems in the future. And although the rear suspension, axels, and radius rods on the RS1 are the same as the RZR 1ks, the front a-arms and axles are proprietary to the RS1. The tie rods are also different. They use an XP 1000 bolt to attach to the rack but the rods themselves are shorter.

No matter if you’ve upgraded to some aftermarket a-arms or are doing fine with your stock a-arms, it is always wise to install a-arm guards and trail arm guards, which are highly beneficial even if you don’t run rocky terrain. Counterintuitively, the plastic UHMV a-arm guards work better than aluminum guards in many applications. You will find that aluminum will drag on rocks and dent up, whereas UHMW slides over rocks far easier than Aluminum does. UHMW can also take a lot more abuse that aluminum can; It’s slicker than snot and damn near indestructible. Factory UTV makes great UHMV a-arm guards. Do a little research and you’ll find that most of the top racers for King of the Hammers, Score, and Best In The Desert run their products. Pro Armor makes quality a-arm guards for the RS1 as well. They fit nicely, look good, and, most importantly, protect your a-arms as they should. The only caveat with Pro Armor is that you might need to cut or grind off the factory guard for the CV joint in order for everything to fit properly. When it comes to thickness, most a-arm guards and skids come in two sizes, ⅜” or ½”. We’ve found that most people can get away with ⅜” guards on their RS1s. If you bang around in the rocks all the time, then ½” might suit you better, but your average recreational driver probably won’t need the protection that ½” a-arm guards provide. Regardless of what you choose, it’s always better to not need guards and have them than to not have a-arm guards and need them. The last thing you need is a dented lower a-arm when you’re deep in the thick of it. So whether you’re looking for RS1 a-arm guards or some aftermarket a-arms, give us ring or shoot us an email and we’ll get you sorted out in no time.

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